Wednesday, January 29, 2020

16 February 2019 - Pyongyang (North Korea)

We left the hotel at 18.15 hours this morning without having breakfast and being told that we would be out most of the day with the temperature starting at –9C in the morning. The first stop was near the railway station to look at the passing vehicles - trolley buses, trams, different kinds of buses, taxis, bicycles and cars - somewhat normal for any city. Trolley buses had stars painted on the sides, one star indicating that it had been driven 50,000 kilometres without an accident. One very old tram had 166 stars on the sides equivalent to having been driven 8,300,000 kilometres. Cars were rarely privately owned unless given as a prize to someone who had done something special for the country. Other cars were owned by the State or businesses. Taxis were donations from China.

A modern trolley bus

Old and new



Ladies at the street stall

The old trolley bus with stars
With donut
The guides bought us donuts from the street stall as they smelt (and tasted) good while we waited for the trolley bus.






The very old trolley bus had been taken out of the museum especially for us to see and then we were take for a ride to be dropped off at one of the metro stations.






Metro train
Then there was a ride on the Metro, costing 5 won (less than  1p as far as I can figure out) which included the Rehabilitation and Glory Stations.

Inside the metro train




Yonggwang Station


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Platform controller






























 A very large Juche Tower Hotel was pointed out to us with the remark that the outside of the hotel had been completed but there was nothing inside the 105 floors.

Ryugyong Hotel















Then it was a drive/wander round the city to various sites.









Model City

Monument to Party Founding



Flags seen on many streets



Sci-Fi Architecture



Some of us bought flowers to lay at bronze statues of the Kims similar to that which the local people were doing. It seemed that this was appreciated by our guides and by the local people who were there at the same time. Before going out this morning we were told not to wear a coat with any markings on it and while at the statues we were told not to have our hands in our pockets, not to carry any bags or hats and sunglasses were to not be worn.

Father and Grandfather

Monument to Kim Il-Sung and Kim jong-Il












Wedding party at the monument
In the afternoon we were left to wander round a flower exhibition, the flowers mainly being begonias, the flower being named for the leader Kim Jong-il. ‘’The exhibition of Kimjongilia flowers is yet another testament to the unlimited love and devotion of the Korean people to the great leader of the entire nation, Comrade Kim Jong-il.’’ as I found on-line. One display was arranged to look like the Sacred Mountain where Kim Jong-il was said to have been born (actually born in Siberia) but the show did actually commemorate the date of his actual birthday. Another display was of Mount Paektu, the most beautiful mountain in Korea located on the border between North Korea and China.









People did not mind having their photo taken






As far as I could find out there was no privately owned housing, it being owned by the government, universities or private business. Prior to being married people had to live with their parents and on marrying request accommodation from the state. Wives were not allowed to work with their husbands and when pregnant the wife was allowed three months off work before the birth and one year afterwards and then the wife could decide if she wanted to return to work. Apparently there are still some arranged marriages in North Korea but couples are allowed to chose their partner if the parents agree.






















Mass Dancing


 


















The day was not finished yet as the next stop was at a scene of massed dancing in the street. Groups of people could be seen walking to a square where music equipment was set up. The women were all in traditional dress, somewhat spoilt as, with it being so cold, they all had to wear a coat which covered the very colourful dresses. Although the dancing was in male/female pairs people did turn up without partners and paired off to dance so I was told.


Early evening we were taken to a supermarket and allowed to wander freely. There was a food section, clothes and household goods and I noticed that one part had an IKEA selections of things, something I did not expect to see. I did not buy anything but others who did had to change their foreign money with the cashier, get a chit for what they wanted, take the chit to the cashier for stamping and when finished shopping they were given their change in foreign currency as foreigners were not allowed to have any won at all. Any personal bags were locked inside a supermarket bag, carried around and then unlocked and the personal bag handed back to the owner on leaving.

It was then time for dinner before a trip to a local bar.

Lunch
Dinner

Wednesday, January 15, 2020

15 February 2019 – DMZ and Kaesong (North Korea)




It was an early start to get to the DMZ and Panmunjom by 10am as this was the allotted time for us to be there. It did not help that it had snowed overnight and the roads were quite icy. Road gangs were out clearing the snow and ice, not with machines, but with shovels and wicker brushes. It seems that a group of people is responsible for a section of road and it is their responsibility to keep it clean.  
Road conditions on the way to the DMZ
When leaving Pyongyang I noticed women on the street banging drums and were told that these were housewives, who did not work, banging drums, singing and shouting to motivate the men in their work and so be more productive. It seems that if people do produce more than expected then they may have some time off work.
On arrival at the DMZ we were allowed to walk around certain areas and take photographs. We saw the silver and blue buildings where the truce was signed between the North Koreans and the Americans (the South Koreans did not sign the armistice). Inside the larger building was the table where the armistice was signed and the original American flags left there when the Americans left in haste. We were able to go onto the roof of a new building and look towards the border with the south. As a surprise we were allowed to take a photo of the North Korean officer who showed us around the area. There was far more access to things here than at the DMZ in South Korea with there being quite a relaxed feeling as well.
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Inside the 'blue' building in July 1953

The DMZ area
The 'blue' buildings now

The tour group with the North Korean guide

                                                                                                                                                                After visiting the DMZ we were taken to Kaesong, the old capital of the country with parts of the old city remaining and which is the southern most city in North Korea. It is an UNESCO site with many old buildings. There we saw an old university, founded in 992, which had been started by the Confucians but was now a museum. The city is now mainly an industrial area.
Old Kaesong
Kaesong at the end of the day

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  Some of us climbed, with difficulty due to the frozen paths, a hill called the Kaesong Kwandok Pavilion which looked out over the city. This was originally built in 1780 as a place for archery practice and competitions.   
View from Kwandok Pavilion
                   Kwandok Pavilion                                                                                                                                 
                                                   
                                                  
On the way back to Pyongyang we called in at a ginseng factory then a stamp exhibition which portrayed, through stamps, the progress of the country from wars end to today.
Poster at the DMZ

Poster at the DMZ

They did not mind having their photo taken











People always went in groups

A wedding party going to Kim's memorial

The old university

The carving had a special meaning (I forgot what)


Traditional clothes

Dinner was a traditional North Korean duck roast with the raw meat put on the table which we had to cook over a gas grill inset in the table. It tasted good! 

Dinner

The hotel dining room

 

   
                                                                                                             Lunch of 12 dishes fit for a king