Welsh David's Russia and Korea: 20 February 2019 - Nampo and Pyongyang (North Korea)

Today we started early to visit Nampo City, Nampo West Sea Barrage and a village co-operative farm now called a state farm. As Nampo was a sensitive area there were a number of police checks on our way there. The farms in this area mainly grow rice and maize and though it was winter time there were people working in the fields and in some of the greenhouses. Farmers work a full day and then have access to computer lessons and further learning, all free. In the village we were given a talk by some of the villagers who were more than happy to show us a bronze sculpture, a 500 ton granite carving with carvings of a speech by one of the Kim’s, and paintings of the various Kim’s visits to the village, even saying how many times each had been to the village. The people in the bronze, granite and painting were actual people from the village.

Farm Buildings

Our Korean guides

Kim and the village people

Farm workers

The village and memorials

It was not a very clear day to see the barrage but it was 8 kilometers long with sluices to control the water level behind the barrage and with three ship locks. There were also ten 1MW hydroelectric machines installed. I was impressed with what could be seen especially as it was built with very little mechanised equipment and completed in 1986. As a result of the barrage the area was also a supplier of salt harvested from nearby salt flats.

Visitors building and barrage

Fishing on the ice at Nampo

Then it was onto the Tae'An Glass Factory where sheet glass was manufactured and where we were able to take photos without any problem. I, and others, were intrigued with the number of posters in the factory exhorting the workers to do more. The factory was protected by soldiers having guns with fixed bayonets.

Poster in the factory

Glass production

Poster in the factory

The next stop was back in Pyongyang at the underground offices and headquarters of President Kim Il Sung and of his Cabinet and Military Commission during the Korean War. There were a number of tunnels but only one of which could be entered as the others were unsafe. In the tunnels were meeting, eating and sleeping rooms and, where it was said, Kim and his officers lived for two years during the war while the Americans bombed Pyongyang. Some of the underground rooms were duplicated using the original furniture in purpose built buildings above ground so as to show visitors how people lived during the war.

One entrance to the tunnels

Inside one of the tunnels

Reproduction of one of the rooms

The June 9th Middle School was next on the visit list and where a few of the younger tour members played football with the students while we waited to be escorted into the school. This school is the showpiece school in North Korea because Kim Il-Sung ordered it to be built as a showpiece in 1969 - on June 6th and hence it's name. Education is compulsory for all up to 12 years of age here. The years are split up as one year of Pre-school, five years of Junior School and three years each of Junior High and High School. University is freely available for the best students while those not so good are expected to join the workforce. Should those in the workforce excel then it is possible for them to be streamed into university study. I was impressed to learn that all the schools are connected by an ‘intranet’ which allows a talk/lecture in any university or school to be watched/listened to by any student at any school in Pyongyang and possibly the country. We were entertained with a concert by the students and staff in the school auditorium which we all enjoyed.

School entrance

Painting in the school

Students performing

Students and teacher performing

Students performing

Playing football

Dinner was at a special ‘fish’ restaurant but although the food was reasonable it was not what was expected and a disappointment. This, and the cold noodle meal, were the only meals I did not particularly like the whole time in North Korea. Usually fish are kept in glass tanks, but not here, the fish of all sizes, were kept in ponds on the ground floor of the restaurant

Then it was a look around the city in the dark before returning to the hotel where most hung out at the bar until quite late.