The station for Veliky Ustyug was Yadrikha where we arrived after a 15 hour train ride. There was no platform to get off the train at, we had to clamber down steep steps to dismount from the train and into a temperature of –18C. While we were getting off the train other passengers were quickly having a cigarette and some children playing in the snow while the train was stopped. An hours drive in a cold minibus took us to Veliky Ustyug and the hotel of the same name. A breakfast had been ordered for us in advance and although it was a kind of hodge-podge because two of the group were vegetarian and gluten free sufficient food was available to all. After that it was straight out to see Father Frost and his Estate, Father Frost being the Russian equivalent of Father Christmas.
The Estate covered quite a large area with plenty of things for children to play on and, with it being winter, there were ice slides and plenty of snow around. We all met Father Frost and some of his elves and generally enjoyed the atmosphere of the estate. Although it was comfortable walking round we did not realize that the temperature had dropped to –17C until I noticed that my beard had frozen due to the snow flakes sticking in the hairs.
The Estate is open all the year round with Father frost being there as well. He does travel around a little bit with something being mentioned about him visiting an Olympic winter games. There is a Mother Frost I was told after having to ask but she’s rarely seen. Couples just married go there to meet and have their photos taken with Father Frost and the photos are kept in albums so that people can go back years later and see the original photos.
The Entrance to the Estate
Various mythical figures in the forest that have to be passed before getting to the House of Father Frost
The house of Father Frost and his wardrobe
The way out
Dinner that evening was at a local Russian cafe chosen by our guide, and the food was good.
The following morning, early, we went out to Kuznefsouo Village to what I called a living museum. We were met there by a traditionally dressed and very energetic woman named Galina.
She was the only person left in the village at one time but slowly her family have been returning not wanting to live in the city anymore. Now she is helped by her son and his wife and they show people how village life is while displaying in the house old farm items and materials while Galina herself makes various craft items. They are mainly self sufficient, growing a lot of their own food and foraging for herbs and other foodstuffs in the local area.
After walking up the hill, because it was too slippery for the bus to get up there, we warmed up in the kitchen and then had to play games such as throwing old boots at wooden blocks and making a clay cat. While in the kitchen the silence was rudely broken by the rooster and a hen who were living there as well, but caged. Galina explained that it was too cold for them to be outside and that there was a fox about the area as well.
A huge lunch was laid out on the table and I have to describe what was available :
Potato soup, mushroom soup, porridge of millet and pumpkin, meat stew, two plates of differently prepared mushrooms, fermented cabbage, berries, Ivan tea made from foraged berries and herbs, herb pie, fruit pie, potato pie, mushroom pie.
We were given berries to try such as wild strawberry, blackcurrant, kailinka (viburnum), red currant, kostyanika (stone berry), byarsishet (hawthorn), muzheveliuk (juniper).
There was a vodka tasting session with vodkas made from raspberry, kailinka (viburnum), rose-hip, orange peel, honey with bits of bees still in it, birch-tree leaves and small leaf buds, and then pure moonshine from yeast, sugar and water.
After having our fortunes told by the chickens, to explain, we all sat in a row with food at our feet, made a wish, the chickens were released and the first one a chicken went to would have their wish fulfilled. Yes, the chickens went for the nearest food. Then we had to dress up in traditional costume!
We were all sorry to leave then but had to get back into town to pick up our things to catch the train to St. Petersburg. The best way down the hill from the living museum was on the rubber rings everyone uses here so off I went, somewhat scary but fun.
I did manage to take some photos of the town before being taken to Kotias railway station for the 22 hour overnight journey to St Petersburg. There were a lot of school children on the train but not on our carriage so their noise did not disturb us. Initially we were put in the same carriage as a large group of children but this was found to be a mistake thank goodness.
The Estate covered quite a large area with plenty of things for children to play on and, with it being winter, there were ice slides and plenty of snow around. We all met Father Frost and some of his elves and generally enjoyed the atmosphere of the estate. Although it was comfortable walking round we did not realize that the temperature had dropped to –17C until I noticed that my beard had frozen due to the snow flakes sticking in the hairs.
The Estate is open all the year round with Father frost being there as well. He does travel around a little bit with something being mentioned about him visiting an Olympic winter games. There is a Mother Frost I was told after having to ask but she’s rarely seen. Couples just married go there to meet and have their photos taken with Father Frost and the photos are kept in albums so that people can go back years later and see the original photos.
The Entrance to the Estate
Various mythical figures in the forest that have to be passed before getting to the House of Father Frost
The house of Father Frost and his wardrobe
 |
| Ice carvings |
The way out
Dinner that evening was at a local Russian cafe chosen by our guide, and the food was good.
The following morning, early, we went out to Kuznefsouo Village to what I called a living museum. We were met there by a traditionally dressed and very energetic woman named Galina.
She was the only person left in the village at one time but slowly her family have been returning not wanting to live in the city anymore. Now she is helped by her son and his wife and they show people how village life is while displaying in the house old farm items and materials while Galina herself makes various craft items. They are mainly self sufficient, growing a lot of their own food and foraging for herbs and other foodstuffs in the local area.
 |
| Children's toys |
After walking up the hill, because it was too slippery for the bus to get up there, we warmed up in the kitchen and then had to play games such as throwing old boots at wooden blocks and making a clay cat. While in the kitchen the silence was rudely broken by the rooster and a hen who were living there as well, but caged. Galina explained that it was too cold for them to be outside and that there was a fox about the area as well.
A huge lunch was laid out on the table and I have to describe what was available :
Potato soup, mushroom soup, porridge of millet and pumpkin, meat stew, two plates of differently prepared mushrooms, fermented cabbage, berries, Ivan tea made from foraged berries and herbs, herb pie, fruit pie, potato pie, mushroom pie.
We were given berries to try such as wild strawberry, blackcurrant, kailinka (viburnum), red currant, kostyanika (stone berry), byarsishet (hawthorn), muzheveliuk (juniper).
There was a vodka tasting session with vodkas made from raspberry, kailinka (viburnum), rose-hip, orange peel, honey with bits of bees still in it, birch-tree leaves and small leaf buds, and then pure moonshine from yeast, sugar and water.
 |
| The moonshine bottle |
 |
| Various vodkas |
 |
| Straining out bee parts when pouring honey vodka |
We were all sorry to leave then but had to get back into town to pick up our things to catch the train to St. Petersburg. The best way down the hill from the living museum was on the rubber rings everyone uses here so off I went, somewhat scary but fun.
I did manage to take some photos of the town before being taken to Kotias railway station for the 22 hour overnight journey to St Petersburg. There were a lot of school children on the train but not on our carriage so their noise did not disturb us. Initially we were put in the same carriage as a large group of children but this was found to be a mistake thank goodness.
No comments:
Post a Comment